Three days of pastéis, viewpoints & wandering

Arrive at opening to beat the coach crowds, and walk the ramparts for the best early light over the river.

Look for the blue-tiled panels and bougainvillea, and grab a cold drink under the trees while the city wakes.

Step inside to see the Gothic cloister ruins, then wander down the lanes toward the river for lunch of grilled sardines.

Climb up for the golden hour sunset, and bring a bottle of vinho verde to share with the locals on the steps.

Order a warm pastel de nata with a bica, and get there before 10am when the queue is shortest.

Browse the world's oldest bookshop still in operation, and look upstairs for the old travel and history sections.

Share tapas from several stalls at lunch, and try the bifana or the bacalhau pastry from the local vendors.

Settle in for a sundowner with a view over the rooftops, and linger as the lights come on across the hills.

Board early for a seat on the wooden tram, and expect a squeeze, so keep bags close and hold on tight.

Admire the Manueline cloister with its carved columns, and buy a ticket online to skip the longest lines.

Eat the original custard tart dusted with cinnamon, and expect a queue but it moves quickly and is worth it.

Stroll along the riverfront to the tower, and finish with a sunset walk back along the Tagus promenade.